Cycling from Montreal to Quebec City had been an old dream of mine for years, always postponed. Then, in late October 2024, the perfect opportunity presented itself: my brother was free, my newly acquired bike was begging to be ridden, and I had a few days of freedom ahead of me. So let’s go for one last ride before winter sets in.
DAY 1: 90 km
Terrebonne/Louiseville
Our ride kicks off at the Ruisseau-de-Feu conservation park in Terrebonne, just across the Charles-de-Gaulle bridge. This ecologically rich park sits only a few hundred metres from the Chemin du Roy and the adjoining Route verte (Green Route). Just enough time to spy on a few feathered creatures, adjust our saddlebags and vroom, we’re off into the crisp autumn air.
From the very first pedal strokes, we weave through the suburban labyrinth of Charlemagne, Le Gardeur, Repentigny and L’Assomption, momentarily losing sight of the King’s Road before rejoining it in Saint-Sulpice. Here, the Green Route alternates between town and countryside before plunging us into downtown L’Assomption, with its magnificent stone buildings.
Soon the villages of Lavaltrie, Lanoraie, Sainte-Geneviève-de-Berthier and Berthierville glide past our handlebars. Occasional clearings deliver breathtaking glimpses of the St. Lawrence River. The scenery is idyllic, with country houses and towns dominated by imposing 19th-century churches.
After Berthierville, the Chemin du Roy makes a sharp ninety-degree turn, leaving the Lake Saint-Pierre floodplain and diving into farmland as far as the eye can see. We roll into Louiseville utterly spent but delighted to sleep in the heart of town, just a stone’s throw from the restaurants. Best of all, there’s a bike store nearby where we can repair a mechanical breakdown.
DAY 2: 70 km
Louiseville/Trois-Rivières
The morning’s kilometres unfurl through peaceful farmland dotted with century-old farmhouses and roadside calvaries, a reminder of Quebec’s religious heritage. Traffic is almost nonexistent; only the occasional tractor disturbs the silence.
We reach the village centre of Yamachiche, where a string of red-brick houses with white ornamentation catches our eye. Beautifully preserved bourgeois residences from the 19th century. Cruising at a leisurely pace, we have time to savour every architectural detail.
Next, we rejoin the St. Lawrence at the Pointe-du-Lac rest stop, which offers a spectacular vantage point over Lake Saint-Pierre’s vast expanse. Then it’s full steam to downtown Trois-Rivières, where rue des Forges awaits us for a refreshment break. When it comes to restaurants, there’s no shortage of choice.
After a cup of coffee on the terrace, the Green Route skirts the Saint-Maurice River and carries us across the Duplessis bridge. We make a brief stop at the Lady of the Cape Shrine, an important pilgrimage site, for a moment of prayer. We end our day in Sainte-Marthe, the easternmost district of Trois-Rivières, where a cozy B&B awaits us.
DAY 3: 60 km
Sainte-Marthe/Deschambault
Miraculously, the wind has died down, our wish granted! Today’s theme is heritage. Along the way, we fall in love with the historic village centres of Champlain, Batiscan, Sainte-Anne-de-la-Pérade, Grondines and Deschambault. Old stone and wooden houses are lovingly preserved. A real beauty. Feeling a bit hungry? Several roadside farm stalls line the route, so we literally eat local. Another delightful quirk of this region: there are no big-box stores, only general stores straight out of another era. Quaint, indeed!
DAY 4: 80 km
Deschambault/Quebec city
Our final day begins in style atop Cap Lauzon, a magnificent promontory overlooking the river at Deschambault. In the distance, the Richelieu rapids, once a major navigation obstacle, roar in the middle of the St. Lawrence.
At Cap-Santé, we branch off onto the Vieux Chemin, which a Globe & Mail writer called “the most beautiful street in Canada.” Nothing less. The scribbler is absolutely right. A narrow road, lined with ancestral houses, perches on a headland. A jewel. In Donnacona, we momentarily leave the Chemin du Roy to explore the Les Écureuils wharf. An extraordinary window on the river.
Then it’s off for a drink at the L’Esprit de clocher microbrewery, before the final stretch to Quebec City. The final kilometres still hold many surprises in store: the spectacular panorama at Cap-Rouge and its soaring railway bridge, the Cartier-Roberval archaeological site with its glassed-in footbridge, the fields of the Saint-Augustin agronomy station and the formidable Côte à Gagnon which spans the cliffs of Augustine. A climb to remember, especially on a generally flat route. Our arrival in Quebec City concludes a magical odyssey on two wheels.
The King’s Road is a sensory experience where every kilometre reveals a piece of the real country and our history. To be repeated, without hesitation. And far more inspiring than the Félix-Leclerc highway…